I’m so excited to be bringing you this ‘What She Does’ feature on ‘uber’ makeup artist Rebecca Kempton! I was lucky enough to have my makeup and hair done by Becky on the French Dressing shoot last month. It was such an education to watch a master at work and witness the transformative power of makeup! Read on for an amazing lowdown on the biggest beauty trends for 2018, Rebecca’s many industry insider tips and the secret to perfect shading. You may want to take notes 😉 xx
All In A Day’s Work
Rebecca is a London-based hair and makeup artist with over 10 years experience in the industry. Working primarily for stage, film and TV productions, her credits include Matthew Bourne’s production of ‘Swan Lake’ and the award-winning film ‘Tyrannosaur’ to name a few. Rebecca is currently Head of Wigs & Makeup on the ‘Mamma Mia’ UK tour.
What’s the best job you’ve ever worked on?
Oh well that definitely has to be working as a makeup artist/hair stylist on ‘Tyrannosaur’. A film directed by Paddy Considine that won countless awards. It was such a small team on the whole film, maybe 30 people. I was lucky enough to work with the ridiculously talented makeup designer Nadia Stacey. With only two of us in the department, I learnt soo much from her and loved every minute of it. It brings back so many great memories working with such talented and brave people.
Whose makeup style in the public eye do you really admire and who would you really love to work with?
I have to say I have a girl crush on Nikki Wolff, or you may know her as Nikki Makeup online. Her obsession with flawless dewy skin is something everyone tries to recreate. She’s constantly sharing her knowledge of application as well as new products on the market. Her signature style is emphasising natural beauty and I love that. You see the model before the makeup, and that’s the whole point.
How has social media changed your industry?
Social media has its pros and cons like most technologies. It’s enabled people to view such a wide range of artists’ work and learn from their tutorials (without having to spend £1000’s on courses). You can literally learn new techniques everyday. Unfortunately it’s now a very saturated market and everyone wants to be a makeup artist. The great thing is that ‘talent’ will always outshine the filters. On the whole I think it’s a great platform to be able to share and inspire each other regardless of where you live.
Stage or screen? Which do you prefer and why?
That’s a tough one. They are both brilliant for many different reasons. TV and film require you to really have an eye for the tiny details that will be seen on HD screens around the world. There’s a lot of waiting around in films, but the great thing about filming is the chance to do something different everyday and in a new location. I love the live aspect of theatre and the quick changes; when cast run off and you change their wigs (whilst they are changing their costumes) with sometimes only 20 seconds to do so. It’s very fast paced and you have to be totally on the ball working to strict time constraints. But I love a challenge! Plus it’s always inspiring to work with very talented people and both genres have that in spades.
Any ‘Insider’ makeup tips for 35 plus skin?
HYDRATION HYDRATION HYDRATION! It’s easy to forget with our busy lifestyles that our skin is 64% water! So that one bottle of Evian you barely get through all day just won’t cut it girls! The easiest way to tell if your skin is dehydrated is to place your index finger horizontally against your cheek and push inwards and upwards towards the temple. If you see horizontal fine lines in the skin, it’s dehydrated so grab that water! I hate to say it but most of the fun things in the world like alcohol and sugar also dehydrate the skin and make our complextion look dull. The age old advice of sleep and water can do wonders for the skin. I personally have always had a very strict skin care routine. That’s one place I’m happy to splash the cash. You only get one face after all. I make sure I cleanse, tone and moisturise every single night. If you did want to splurge, my current favourite eye serum is Estee Lauder’s ‘Revitilizing Supreme’. It’s light yet nourishing, my little treat to myself before bed.
I’ve got 5 minutes before I leave for the school run to put on some makeup – what could I do to make the most difference to my poor tired face?!
When I’m in a rush I concentrate on skin and brows. There are some really great tinted moisturisers, BB and CC creams on the market at the moment. There’s no use in going for a heavy coverage foundation, if you’ve not got enough time to finish the look and you can end up looking worse than when you started. If you use one, a quick spritz of your favourite toner (Dermologica Multi-Active toner is mine) will help blend your tinted moisturiser into your face if your skin is a bit dry. The best thing about BB’s is that you can put them on with your fingers! So when one child and the dog are hanging off you, this is super quick! BB creams give a light dewy coverage when you want that ‘I woke up like this’ morning glow. A quick flush of a pinky blusher on the apples of your cheeks (not up to the hairline, this can look dated) would work. Women often shy away from the baby pink blushes opting for more neutral blusher shades. This can sometimes age you. Remember we want young, fresh dewy-looking skin in zero time so less is always more. Lastly I fill in my eyebrows, just where you may be missing hairs to give a natural look. If you struggle with filling in brows opt for a clear brow gel to simply comb them into place. If you’re super speedy you can add a flick of mascara and off into the sunset/ to school gates you ride!
What’s the secret to brilliant eye shading (I still haven’t nailed it!)??
BLEND BLEND AND BLEND! I’ll never forget that advice from my makeup tutor Astrid Kearney. “Blend, and when you think you’ve finished, blend some more”. If you’re just starting to experiment with eyeshadows go for browns and golds, as they’re very easy to work with and on all skin tones, as apposed to the brights and glitters. Don’t go crazy loading your brush with tones of product, most of it will fall off and end up below your eyes. Think minimal on the brush and build up depth of colour. It’s not a race, hence why it’s not in the ‘school gate guide’ above!
What product can you NOT live without as a professional MUA?
I would have to say liners, be that lip or eye. They are soo versatile and you can use them in many different ways. Perfect for on holiday when you’re unable to take your whole makeup arsenal. As well as the traditional ways, softer eye liners can be used as shadows using them over the whole eyelids and blending to give a soft finish. They are also great if you want to create a glossy eye, very on trend at the moment, as they don’t move as much as powders under gloss. Lip liners are great for overlining your lips very slightly to create that fuller look, and much cheaper than fillers! The trick is to choose a similar or fractionally darker shade than your chosen lipstick/gloss and draw just above your natural lip line. I often use liners over the whole lip as a base so lipsticks stay on for longer without touch ups.
For how long should you keep makeup before it’s past its best?
Most makeup has a little symbol on the packaging. It looks like an open pot with a number inside. That means, once the product has been opened it will last for this many months. Very handy to know! The best thing to do is try and keep your makeup (and bag) as clean as possible. Just take a wet wipe to your products every now and again to wipe off any spills and dried product. You can also purchase (relatively cheaply) alcohol sprays for things like eyeshadow pallettes, blushers and bronzers to kill any bacteria that can form on them. After all your’e putting these things on your face so the cleaner the better.
What are the BIG makeup trends for 2018?
Luckily there really is something for everyone in 2018. If you adore experimenting with bright colours, you’re in luck. Look out for pops of colour on the lips, cheeks and eyes. From ocean blues to ultra violets, there’s tonnes to play with! Don’t panic if the idea of bright orange shadows has you in a cold sweat, weightless foundations and dewy skin are also having a real moment. It’s time to say goodbye to heavy coverage foundations and put down the contour palette. Beautiful glowing skin is back! We will be seeing more brands bringing out light breathable foundations that let you ‘see’ the skin. My tips would be to add flushes of colour on the cheeks and subtle pearlescent liquid highlighters to create that youthful dewy skin. We are moving away from the glittery shimmers of 2017 and towards a glossy skin finish for 2018.